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The "Bulova 23" Series

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The "Bulova 23" series of watches was an extensive line that premiered from the mid-1950s through the mid-1960s. These watches are known for their 23-jewel movements, thus the name "Bulova 23". A recent review of a 1964 price list revealed over 80 models, with many gaps in the variant designations in that list. So, my assumption is that there were well over 100 of these great watches produced during its life span. It is important to understand that the "Bulova 23" was a specific model line bearing the name "Bulova 23", rather than just a descriptive term for the number of jewels in the movement. There were other models produced at the same time that also had 23 jewels, but they bore other model names. To understand the distinctive "Bulova 23" model, you have to look carefully at the characteristics of the watches in that line.

Bruce Shawky wrote an interesting and informative article on the "Bulova 23" line for the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors Bulletin, which was published in August 2010 and entitled, "The Bulova 23". If you're interested in more information about these models, I strongly suggest reading that article. Bruce discusses the particulars of the movement in the "'Bulova 23" series in some detail and provides a bit of historical reference for these great watches. My write-up is not intended to replace Bruce's excellent research, but rather to present a few facts, based on the available vintage advertisements and my own observations, which may help you identify these great models for your collection.

First, it is important to note that I have yet to see an advertisement for a ladies' "Bulova 23". There were many ladies' models with 23 jewels, but, so far, every advertisement I have seen for a 23-jewel ladies' model assigns a specific name to the line, such as Rhapsody, La Petite, and The First Lady. You will see ladies' "Bulova 23" models listed on other sites, but I have yet to see one of those listings supported by a vintage ad or anything else. Apparently, the assumption has been that, if it reads "23" or "23 Jewels" on the dial, it must be a "Bulova 23". That assumption is incorrect, as evidenced by the many ads that assign other model names to watches that have those charactistics. Currently, there is no evidence of which I am aware to support the idea that a ladies' model should ever be considered a "Bulova 23".

Another point that seems to cause some confusion concerns when the Bulova 23s stopped being produced. There are many watches in the late 1960s and throughout the 1970s that have 23 jewels and which may even read "23 Jewels" or "23" on the dial. However, by the mid-1960s those watches were assigned different model names, such as President or Senator and, according to the advertisements we have, no longer went by the name "Bulova 23". The latest ad I am aware of for a "Bulova 23" is dated 1963. From the price list, I know that the "Bulova 23s" were still sold as late as 1964. Also in the early 1960s, the wonderful "Regatta 23" line began production, so already by then the 23-jewel designation was moving into other lines. The "Regatta 23" line shares the same characteristics as the "Bulova 23", so it seems reasonable to assume that the later Regatta line replaced the earlier Bulova 23 series. In any event, at this time, I have nothing to show a production period for the "Bulova 23" that extended beyond 1963 or, possibly, 1964.

The Bulova 23s were waterproof, shock resistant, anti-magnetic, and self-winding, and, according to the ads we have to-date, they were all round and read "23 Jewels" on the dial under the Bulova name. There were, however, other models made by Bulova at the same time as the Bulova 23 that also had 23-jewel movements. Those were dress watches, presumably were sold under different names, and were non-waterproof and manual wind. Again, it is important to look at the characteristics of the watch, as well as the date of manufacture, to determine whether it is a "Bulova 23" or another model that happens to have a 23-jewel movement.

The Bulova 23 variant names follow the same structure as seen in other Bulova series, meaning the watches are called "Bulova 23" sometimes followed by a letter or series of letters, such as the Bulova 23 "A" or Bulova 23 "AAW". The variant designations may be only one letter or up to three letters. According to the price lists, there were also variations within the different model designations, as evidenced by a single variant being listed twice with different item numbers and prices. The basis of the price difference is unknown, but it would make sense that a different case composition--such as solid gold vs filled or plated--may be an example of one factor that could account for the price increase. A recent ad has revealed a Bulova 23 with diamonds on the dial (see below), so such embellishments may also explain the different prices within a given variant designation.